My girlfriend Mary works out at the distillery hand-bottling cases
of Blanton’s. At night when
she comes home I bury my face in the shoulder of her puffy hooded
sweatshirt where the particles of
sweetness linger. If you've ever driven past those eerie
warehouses out on I-64 near Frankfort, you
understand. They call it the “angels' share,” the
evaporating bourbon that lingers in the air as part of the
aging process. Sweet smell, thick with sugar and vanilla,
chocolate and oak, and then behind that, the
homegrown scent of baking bread.
Mary doesn't drink, which I think is funny. All that bourbon, and
she doesn't even want to know
what it tastes like. Sometimes, when things are good with us,
she'll slip a bottle in her backpack on the
way out and bring it to me. She rocks back on the porch chair with
a cigarette balanced in the corner of
her lips and watches me pour a little, swirl it around and breathe
deep.
“Like the freekin' Christ communion,” she says. I sit
on the barrel with rusty hoops that stain her
porch red. Mary stares out across the lawn, across the street,
down the road and I know she’s looking at
the stuff she cannot change—Mr. Miller’s broken down
pick-up truck, the light post that winks each
night into her bedroom, her father’s chickens cooped up in a
fence made out of packing plastic.
She says, “The color of bourbon reminds me of rust, and I
don’t want to drink rust.” What she
really means is bourbon reminds her of her daddy on the porch
steps whirling his keychain around,
calling her name in a sing-song voice that slurs and drips with
venom. What she means is she doesn’t
want to be with a man who reminds her of her daddy, or in a job
that changes people into people like
her daddy, but in this part of Kentucky the union benefits of a
distillery job aren't anything to piss on.
I say, "If I could, I would hitch up that lamppost and tighten
that light bulb just for you." When
it's good, she takes my hand, flips it and traces her fingers
along my palm. "You would burn yourself,"
she says, smiling. When it's bad she says, "Daniel, don't be so
damn cheesy all the time."
When she gets like this, I ignore her until I've had two or three
and my shoulders feel the little
pinballs gliding around under the skin and the Kentucky air
doesn't seem quite as damp. The aging of
bourbon is like the development of a relationship—the good
stuff sits and waits, breathing in and out,
expanding into its surroundings and absorbing it, becoming it,
season after season. Sometimes Mary and
I fuse together nicely, creating our own flavor, I guess. But then
again, mostly we just sit and wait.
Mary says, “One day I want to own a house in one of those
developments where everything
looks the same.” She sometimes drives into Louisville to
fancy stores to buy dresses that she never
wears. She always talks about quitting smoking.
There’s a black fungus that grows on the sides of those
warehouse buildings, clings to them like
moss to a tree until the big boys power spray it off each turn of
the season. It keeps coming back, year
after year. The guys down at the distillery say that after
hundreds of years of making whiskey in one
place, natural selection leaves us with something that can feed
only on alcohol. Feed and thrive on it.